PLANTING TIPS

There is no more satisfying experience than to plant trees, shrubs and 
flowers and to care for them until they become beautiful growing things. 
It is not difficult to give plants the proper start if you just follow the 
directions in this booklet.

Location and Ground Preparation

Poor drainage can be a major cause of weak growth in new plants. Avoid 
planting in places where water collects and stands after rainfall. Make sure 
the location meets the sunlight needs of the plants you want to grow. 
Prepare soil for planting flowers and vegetable beds by deep spading or 
rototilling. Shrubs and trees just need well-dug holes in the sod; but for 
good growth, the soil must be kept spaded two or three feet around the 
plant and this area kept cultivated or mulched.

In some areas with heavy clay soil and poor drainage, experts recommend 
that plants be set higher than the soil level. Check drainage by filling the 
empty hole with water. If it takes more than an hour to drain, you have a 
drainage problem. Try breaking up the hardpan clay at the bottom of the 
hole and see if drainage improves. If another location with better drainage 
isn’t feasible, dig the hole wider than normal and set the plant with about a 
fourth of the root ball above ground level and mound soil around this.

Dig the hole at least a few inches deeper and add humus so it will hold more 
moisture longer. Add as much as I part of organic matter to 2 parts of original soil. Use only decomposed material in the hole. Add enough of this soil mix to the hole to be able to set the plant just above its original depth as grown in the nursery. If there is any question, set the plant higher, not deeper, since the soil may settle.

Do not skimp on this job. An old saying was "better a $5 plant in a $10 hole 
than vice versa." But when this wisdom was carried too far, tree roots refused 
to leave some comfortable holes and just encircled the trunk until the tree died. So now we settle for a hole with just good enough soil to ease the transition from nearly perfect container soil to less than perfect garden soil. It is now agreed by experts that a saucer-shaped hole is superior in any soil since 90% of a tree’s root system will develop in the top 6"-12’ A saucer-shaped hole allows for more expedient accommodation of these vital uppermost roots.

Planting Balled & Burlapped Trees
(Similar to planting container plants)

Planting from Containers
More and more of our plants are coming from containers. Be sure the soil is 
moist enough to hold together at planting time. Some smaller plants, annuals 
and vegetables, are grown in peat pellets or pots that can be planted pot and 
all. Often these have white feeding roots growing through the sides by planting time.

Dry soil in the surrounding area can draw the moisture from the root ball, 
so turn your hose on low and let it fill the hole and surrounding soil. When 
one hole is wet enough, move the hose to the next one.

For plastic, clay, or any non-biodegradable containers, turn the plant upside 
down, hold the trunk or stem in place with one hand, and knock the side of 
the container against a hard surface. The roots and soil should come out easily in one unit. If knocking harder does not accomplish this, cut away the pot if possible. It is better to waste the pot than to disturb roots any more than necessary.

However, if the roots are seriously matted or encircling the root ball, loosen 
the outside ones with a gentle massage.

Then set the root ball carefully into the hole with the soil line of the tree 
slightly higher than the surrounding soil to allow for settling. Which side 
faces where is not crucial to the plant. For the good of the plant, point the 
lowest branches toward areas of little activity so they won’t get broken. 
Where wind is a problem, turn the side with the most branches into the wind.

Add backfill soil gradually and firm gently to assure good root contact. Either 
throughout the process or when the hole is almost level with the soil line, 
water slowly but well, even if it is raining, until the soil in the hole has the 
consistency of beef stew. The water will help the soil to settle and eliminate 
air pockets. After the water is absorbed, finish filling and slightly mound up 
with more soil to cover all roots and so that the new soil level is about an 
inch above that of the surrounding area.

Lack of enough water during the first growing season is a major cause of 
plant loss. The limited root system on these plants makes them highly 
susceptible to dry weather damage. Supplemental water is absolutely 
necessary. Wet the soil enough to soak through to the base of the root 
system at each watering. Water the plant twice a week during hot weather 
unless there is at least one inch of rainfall per week or 10 days.

Pruning is usually done continuously at the nursery and very little should 
be needed when you get your plant home. However, it is now your plant 
and you are free to shape it however you want. You can make a shrub into 
a tree or train an apple tree flat against a wall (espalier) if you like. Certainly 
remove any parts that get broken in transit and any branches that are 
crowded or crossing. Try not to leave two branches nearly opposite; they 
will form a bad crotch when the tree is older. Over the years, as a tree 
grows taller, you can remove lower branches for clearance, but a tiny tree 
may well need all the leaf surface possible.

SHRUBS

Cut off damaged or frayed roots before planting. Thin out tops of many 
branched shrubs, removing old wood. Cut tops back one-third to one-half. 
Never allow roots to become dry. To plant, follow same instructions as given 
on page 5.

HEDGES

Plant small shrubs which are to form a hedge less than 2 feet in height 10 to 
12 inches apart on center; medium-sized bushes 12 to 18 inches apart on 
centers. Set tall shrubs or trees for high hedges 2 to 4 feet apart. For the 
latter, it is often more practical to dig individual holes than to set by the 
trench method. Set hedges a trifle lower than they were in the nursery to 
get dense growth at the bottom. Prune tops back 6 to 12 inches above the 
ground.

Each spring the hedge can be trimmed back to the desired height and width. 
Frequent trimming during early summer will make the hedge grow dense. 
Trim both the sides and the top, or else the hedge will grow wider at the 
top and become open at the bottom.

 
How to Plant Broad-Leaved Evergreens, Azaleas, Rhododendrons, 
Camellias, Etc.

These plants require an acid soil either maintained or created artificially, a 
moist situation but one with excellent drainage and a light soil with a high 
proportion of humus. As they are shallow rooted, plant them high, maintain 
at least a 3-inch mulch around them and never cultivate. Where winter 
protection is necessary, spraying the foliage with a wilt preventive is helpful 
or use a burlap screen for protection.

How to Plant Perennials

The soil should be well worked in specially prepared beds 2 to 2-1/2 feet 
deep with good drainage. Plant food and plenty of humus are necessary 
ingredients for successful perennial flower growing. Most perennials 
respond best if planted in a sunny location.

The average planting distance for perennials is 1 foot apart. Vigorous 
growers like peonies and mallows require as much as 3 feet.

No. 1 plants (see above) such as Iris should be planted with the roots below 
the surface of the ground and the rhizome just on the surface.

No. 2 plants such as Peonies should be planted with the tips of the buds 
just below the surface of the ground (about 1 inch). Peonies will not bloom 
well if planted too deeply or if deprived of ample plant food.

No. 3 plants on which the leaves spring from a crown should be planted 
with this crown just at the dirt line.

No. 4 plants with a fleshy root such as Hollyhocks should be planted with 
the tap root straight down and the bud just below the surface of the dirt.

In all planting, spread the roots out naturally and do not crowd. Bring the soil 
in contact with all roots and press firmly. Water thoroughly.

Most winter injury to herbaceous perennials is caused by alternate freezing 
and thawing of the soil. A mulch of salt hay, straw or leaves applied to the 
ground after it is frozen will prevent injury to most perennials. Plants which 
maintain a crown of green leaves through the winter, such as Shasta Daisies, 
will need special protection in the way of a mulch which will not pack down 
and cause the leaves to rot. Some plants, such as chrysanthemums, will 
benefit from a mulch of sand.

Many perennials make rapid growth and need dividing every few seasons. 
Large clumps produce mediocre blooms because the inside roots are starved 
and crowded. Perennials may be divided and reset in either early fall or spring.

Select a site that receives at least 6 hours of sunlight each day and drains 
well. Don’t plant roses too close to trees or shrubs whose roots will compete 
for soil nutrients. A site with good air circulation helps prevent disease.

When the soil is poor, dig out the beds to a depth of 18 inches to 2 feet. 
Mix the soil with 25% peat moss and about 10% compost or well rotted 
manure.

Rose plants purchased in containers should be removed—following procedure recommended by grower for type of container used—and set in ample 
holes to proper depth. Fill in with soil and water generously to eliminate 
air pockets.

To plant dormant bare root roses, dig holes large enough to accommodate 
roots without crowding, and deep enough to set them at the proper height.

The lower part of the bud union or crown of the plant should be level with 
the surface of the ground in mild climates—i to 3 inches below in severe 
climates. Spread the roots so they point downward at a forty—five degree 
angle. Build a mound or cone of soil in the hole under the base of the bush 
to help in spreading the roots. Cover the roots with loose soil, working it 
well underneath.

Fill the hole 3/4 full and tamp soil down firmly; water well. Fill hole and 
mound over top 6 inches until growth starts to prevent drying out of canes.

Winter protection of roses in severe climates should consist of an 8-inch 
earth mound over the base of the bush. In milder climates a 3—inch earth 
protection is sufficient. Rose foliage is a vital part of the rose plant. Do not 
cut it lavishly through the growing season. Spray or dust regularly.

Roses like cool roots. A 3-inch mulch of peat moss or other suitable material 
keeps soil cool, conserves moisture and prevents weed growth.

Pruning Trees and Shrubs. Established plants are pruned only for cultural or maintenance purposes. Improving structure is of primary importance. Work for uniform spacing of main stems and branches; thin out weak growth; eliminate weak crotches; raise the head of a tree gradually by removing the lowest branches, starting at least 2 years after planting. Keep shrubs shapely and restricted by heading—in young growth. Drastic pruning of shrubs should be done only by removing old wood to ground. Prune roses in spring.

Pruning Narrow-leaved Evergreens. Narrow-leaved evergreens may be kept thick and shapely and their growth suitably restricted by cutting back the ends of the branches. Pinching back a part of the tender, new growth is the simplest and usual method. Maintaining a neat evergreen hedge requires cutting back whenever the growth becomes irregular.

Next Year's Growth

Pruning Broad-leaved Evergreens. Tip-prune the branches just before new growth starts to keep shrubs thick. Head back longer growth if necessary. Removal of faded flower clusters from Rhododendron, Laurels and Andromedas to prevent seed formation is usually adequate pruning for them.

Cultivation. Frequent, shallow cultivation will control weeds and produce a dust mulch to conserve much needed moisture in the soil. Mulching. For ornamental trees, shrubs and evergreens, a mulch of peat, grass clippings, composted manure, marsh hay or straw may be used instead of dust mulch.

Watering. Artificial watering of new plantings during dry spells is necessary for several years. Give the plant all the water the soil around it will take at one time. Make certain evergreens have ample moisture in the Fall.

Fertilizing. After the first year, fertilize trees regularly. One quarter pound of a commercial nitrate fertilizer, per year of growth, broadcast under the spread of the branches in Spring is excellent. Small fruits and shrubs respond to the same treatment.

Roses benefit from regular applications of fertilizer through the Spring and Summer. Foliar and liquid feeding methods are effective.

• First determine where you plan to plant (sun or shade). Then choose the plant variety that best grows in that light. Good drainage is also essential for best growth. Standing water can rot roots quickly.

• Till the flower bed 12 inches or more deep. Add fertilizer and soil conditioners for future flowers and healthy growth. Follow package instructions.

• Space each plant according to its final growing size (width and height). Some crowding can make the best-looking flower beds.

• Carefully remove plants from the tray or pots. Disturb the roots as little as possible. Put plants in holes about the same depth as they were in the container (slightly deeper is 0. K.).

• Pinch off most current flowers. The plant then puts its energy into the roots and getting established in its new home.

• Water thoroughly for the first weeks and do not let plants become dry...then water regularly.

• After growth is established, prune all old faded flowers. This helps plants set new blossoms instead of making seeds.

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